Sakanamachi Gogou

A small charcoal brazier at the table sets the tone: diners are greeted with an appetiser to grill over the flames. Grill dried fish or vegetables at your own pace, watching fragrant smoke curl upwards as anticipation builds for the next drink. Robata Sakanamachi Gogo Kagurazaka is an izakaya where guests can linger over drinks and a varied selection of robata-grilled dishes and small plates in a calm, wood-toned setting.

The small plates are made for drinks: a daily assortment of sashimi featuring local fish, Kohaku chicken thigh grilled over charcoal, whelk skewers and grilled chicken meatball skewers are among the offerings. There are thoughtful drinking snacks, too, including potato salad paired with shuto. It makes for an easy, unhurried rhythm: a bite, then another sip.

The sake list ranges from dry junmai to aromatic junmai ginjo, with labels from across Japan and the chance to try a different flavour by the glass. The standard robata and Gogo courses feature seasonal fish and vegetables, and offer an all-you-can-drink sake option—a useful choice for groups who want to share drinks without worrying about each round.

The tucked-away dining room, reached down an alley, is reported to get busy from early evening. Booking ahead for dinner is recommended.